Houston, TX 77077
I’ve been going to Sylvia’s for years. I’d hoped to fall head over heels for a spot revolving around a favorite comfort food. Fajitas, Chili Relleno, nah….”THE CHEESE ENCHILADA” In essence, a required food demanded by my core… Alas, time and again I come away after Sylvia’s satisfied but lacking in rapture. I’m of the old guard. Born and bred on Felix’s Combination plate add an enchilada. These example of the art were in my opinion and that of many others the perfect simple cheese enchilada. They were what they were. They did not pose as Italianesque, no tomato whatever anywhere on the plate. They did not succumb to the calls of “La Ciudad” and go highfalutin. Sour cream would have gilded the Lilly. I long for a return to yesteryear and the fundamentals. Sylvia’s does not provide such pleasure for me.
I will say, that I think her menu is excellent and overall preparation and presentation of her versions of the enchilada are directed and good. most of the time… The flavors of nearly everything complement one another and the service is fine. The wood fired offerings at Sylvia’s are tasty but pale in the light of true parrillas at the likes of “El Tiempo” or “Pico’s”.
I’ll keep going back, now and again, in hope that someday my pot of gold will await at the bottom of the rainbow.